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A few days ago I started repairing Laptop Batteries. And in particular the modern Smart Battery Packs. Below my first Pack opened before Repair and Reset.

A BQ80201 Controller Board for the Acer Aspire 9411 AWSMi 17 inch Dual Core Laptop. Which didn’t take much time to open. These packs can’t be fixed by just replacing the 18650 Li-ions by inserting new cells like was still possible with the old Battery Packs (Mostly NiCad and NiMH Packs). Because with the introduction of the Li-ion Battery it is controlled by an intelligent controller Board that keeps track of the Battery temperature, Over voltage when charging, Over current, and prevents Exploding or dangerous Fires.

Because Li-ions are very Powerful we need this safety Controller Board as recently was big news when the Samsung Galaxy 7(? I am not familiar with all those new Smart Phones) was cancelled because it caught fire or exploded.

And it had cost millions to cancel that Model out of safety concerns. And apparently Li-ion Batteries become very unstable when they get overheated. Follows the path of least resistance. I encountered a lot of problems that made it almost impossible for me to repair/fix a Bad Smart Battery at first. I will summarize these points of concern below: • Smart Batteries are read and programmed by using the Philips I2C protocol. Which involves using the 3 wires SDA, SCLK, and GND. And an I2C Adapter Interface.

• When we only replace the old Batteries we will notice that when we insert the ‘repaired’ Pack back into the Laptop, it will protest that the Pack is still Bad and it will not charge correctly either. Because the old BAD Pack data is still stored in the Eeprom on the Controller Board. • That’s why we also need to reset/reprogram the previous mentioned Eeprom too. Because the Eeprom on the Controller Board still contained for instance the old Production Date and the Cycle Count of times Charged etc. Below another peek into the opened Acer Battery Pack (A Sanyo 3UR18650Y-2-QC236 Battery). Reading the Pack Data and resetting/reprogramming can be easily done with the Full version of the program BE2WORKS. The free demo version only Reads Battery Pack Data.

The Full version is not cheap but when we take in account that a single Replacement Battery Pack already easily costs 30 to 60 Dollar/Euro. We earn that investment back after repairing/resetting about 5 Battery Packs.

• Because every Battery Pack Connector needs another connector Cable we need to make different versions. Sadly we have to investigate the information of the Connector pins ourself. Like the 7 pins Connector I had to use for my Acer Aspire 9411ASMi Laptop Battery Pack. And my brother’s Acer Aspire 5520G Battery Pack had the same connector but only 10.8V instead of the 11.1V that my Pack had (both Packs about 4400mAh).

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• I started with the BE2Works demo and therefore had bought the cheap CP2112 USB Adapter to be able to test reading the Battery Eeprom Data. Carti audio free. Without that Adapter present the Program will quit. But before reading the Pack by I2C communication is possible we first have to find out the position of the NTC resistor on the Connector. And after I connected that pin to GND the Battery could be read by BE2WORKS. And if the Pack is still in sleep mode we also have to shortly apply an external DC voltage of about 11V onto the Plus and GND connector pins. • Because there was no 7 pin connector Data to be found I started by checking the Plus and GND pins first.

And to read out the Eeprom we don’t need to connect the Plus of our Battery Pack to our CP2112 USB Adapter to prevent damage to PC or Adapter. After that I checked with my digital Meter between all pins (except the Plus!!) to Ground if I could measure about 10Kohm that represents the temperature measuring NTC.

And connected that pin permanent with GND (on the Connector). And a self made 3 wire connection Cable from the Gnd connection of the CP2112 Adapter was connected to the Battery connector. And the other two wires also from the JP2 connector on the CP2112 represent SDA and SCLK. The CP2112 will be recognized by Windows without having to install any driver. • To prevent blowing up a one-time 4 legged Fuse on the Controller Board that is placed in the Plus Battery Pack connection on the Controller Board, we have to start removing old Batteries by starting removing the Plus wire first, than the lower next Plus, until the last Wire the GND can be removed. And when connecting new Batteries we for the same reason start in the opposite sequence starting with the Battery GND connection on the internal Controller Board first, going up to the next higher Battery wire, until we finally end with connecting the Plus of the Whole Battery Pack, being the last wire left to connect.

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